Liberal use of non-foiled glass stones looked like "the real thing." While necklace lengths ran the gamut, most tended to be right around the hollow of the neck.

Brass stampings of the same design were used interchangeably for pins, necklaces, brooches, earrings, vanity mirror frames, purse frames and buttons. But now the "flappers" were lopping off their glowing locks of hair, wearing skirts above their knees and in 1920 secured the right to vote! Coco Chanel introduced the "little black dress" and was the first couturier to show ropes of rhinestones draped on her runway models...quite a statement indeed. Materials included marcasites (20s diamonds), jade, chalcedony, chrysoprase, chrome and rhodium plated metal, celluloid and Bakelite, glass and white pot metals.

Shortly, you could order similar looks from the Sears catalog. The stones were set very close together with little metal showing. Earrings were no longer pierced (considered to be vulgar at this time) but of the screw back type. Necklaces continued to be either very long or very short. Brass that was gold or silver plated brass, sterling, wood, seeds, string, leather and other natural materials.

In the courts favor were diamonds, platinum, pearls and a style quite different from the heaviness of the preceding eras.

While platinum was desired, it was proclaimed a "strategic metal" during WWI and its use in jewelry was diminished.

Permanently foiled stones (rhinestones) process refined. Society was moving faster and the artisans favored the slower pace to create graceful pieces.

The materials for this jewelry were bronze, brass, silver, copper, amber, enamels and glass.The pieces were black and made of various types of materials: gutta percha, vulcanite, bog oak, ebonite and black glass.Jewelry took the form of chatelaines, hair ornaments, lockets, pierced earrings, watch chains with fobs and seals, cameos, book chain style necklaces, hatpins, lavalieres, lace and lingerie pins, bangles, cufflinks and stud buttons.The Czechs became known for marvelous faux gemstone glass pieces.Brass stamped settings held the stones in with prongs and were well marked.Blister and freshwater pearls were preferred for their non-uniform shapes. Stones of choice included turquoise, moonstones and opals. The urge to secure voting rights led to secret languages of color.